First Look: LC Racing LC10B5 V2

Updated: July 27, 2025

The LC10B5 V2 is about to hit the market, and we're here to take a look at one of the first production samples built to run in the JConcepts Buggy Challenge at Hobby Action RC Raceway here in Chandler, Arizona.

The short version: I love it.
-Chris

Starting with the EMB-1 platform in 2012, LC Racing has established itself as the leader in high-quality, yet affordable, race-ready 1/14 scale vehicles. In January 2020, they entered the 1/10 scale market, introducing the LC10B5, a 4WD race buggy platform rivaling the likes of the Associated B74.

Offered in both slipper and center differential configurations, this platform was built to throw down whether on turf/carpet or dirt/clay. However, the front track width was wider than allowable by ROAR, limiting its use in sanctioned competition.

That changes with the LC10B5 V2.

With a new shock package, aluminum and carbon fiber hop-ups, improved geometry, and compliant overall width, the LC10B5 V2 is ready to stand against the mainstream buggies on the market. And with an MSRP of $399.99, you simply can't beat its price/performance.

Build Details

All metal sealed gear differentials throughout, providing durable and smooth power delivery.
I hate E clips, but they're used throughout the 1/14 lineup, so it makes sense the 1/10 offering uses them as well. Just make sure to lock them in place well and don't let them fly off your workbench into the abyss...
Lightweight machined aluminum shock retainers.
13 mm shocks with 2x1.7 mm hole front and 2x1.8 mm hole rear pistons instead of the 1.6/1.7 of V1. Shock shafts are a beefy 3.5 mm diameter.
Use extra care (and threadlocker) to securely fasten the screw holding the pinions to the center driveshafts. More on this later...
While I do love the fact that the outer hinge pins are retained by a recessed area that a set screw secures, aluminum hubs (C7107) would be better suited to prevent accidentally stripping out the plastic of the hub while trying to ensure the hinge pin is fully secured.
Shorter front axles, turnbuckles, and arms allow the LC10B5 V2 to pass inspection at the big races.
Updated floating servo mount looks incredible, and holds any common 1/10 scale servo, like this Protek 575.
Sleek black anodized chassis.
Clamping motor mount. Rotate the motor until you achieve the desired mesh, then clamp it down with a screw.

At the Track

I'm not the best driver (as we'll outline below), but the LC10B5 V2 feels fantastic to me, and to those I've let drive it (who are much faster than me). It's fun to run something different than the crowd.

Here's a walk through of my experience.

Let's make this clear first: the current track layout is brutal.

Racers are snapping their chassis and parts are littered throughout the track after most heats. There are so many opportunities combining high speed, big air, and solid brick walls and metal poles. The quad is a 45 foot jump.

Anyway - during my first few laps, I managed to fly right into a metal pole, resulting in a broken shock piston. However, I forgot to install the 1 mm spacer below the piston, which may have contributed to some excessive force applied in a particular way. Without a spare piston, the practice day was over.

Comparing my Associated shocks to the ones included with the LC10B5, I realized they were a perfect fit.

The next day, I built some brand new 13mm shocks with Kashima bodies, machined spacers, X-rings, etc. along with the springs and oil weights recommended by a fellow racer.

The car weighs nearly the same as the B74.2CE (mine's around 1278g as a slider) making it easy to compare setups.

(Also, our prototype of one shock tower cover design can be seen)

Remember how I said we'd get to that pinion gear later?

Back at the track, fresh off the setup station, I threw it down for some more laps. Unfortunately the rear pinion screw came loose, which allowed the rear center driveshaft to shift away from gearbox and out of the red sleeve that retains everything, allowing the CVA pin to fall out.

I may have forgotten to Loctite it when building the kit. :) I would recommend using red Loctite on this particular screw just to be fully certain it remains snug. If you ever need to remove it (to replace bearings etc.) you should be able to remove it by heating with a soldering iron first.

M2x9.8 is the official pin size, but I was able to use some Arrma ARA-2151 (which is what the track had) in a pinch, as they are M2x10.

I also managed to clip a pipe at high speed, breaking a turnbuckle, which I did not have spares of.

Luckily, the Associated B74 ones are pretty darn close, so I picked up some 1up titanium options along with Associated ball cups (91722).

Summary: It's Great

We've got kits and parts on the way, and are excited to start supporting the 1/10 scale side of LC Racing.

We'll be making various parts to enhance the LC10B5 experience.

Another fun note: B74 bodies can be made to fit, and I like the Leadfinger retro option recently released. My wife's PTG-1 is equipped with it, and I have one painted up for myself as well.