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With these upgrades, you can make them even better. See what we recommend, and why:
Depending on your driving skill (and that of those around you), you may be able to get away with the included plastic components for a while.
At some point, however, you're going to make unexpected contact with a pipe, wall, or another car - and that's where the aluminum option parts help ensure you stay in the race.
They include plastic inserts to help absorb energy to limit the beating your bearings take, but bearings still take a beating on these little cars. If you can wiggle your axle significantly while holding a hub, it's time to swap in a replacement bearing. OEM are cheap and plentiful, our bearing sets are a little better.
Eventually, we'll have our own machined aluminum hubs to offer, but in the meantime, these are the way to go.
The OEM servo is on a limited lifespan due to its plastic gears. You can replace it with a stronger metal gear Batan D135F (the LC Racing optional part) but it’s really slow.
For an even better option, you can switch to a more common micro servo by using our mounts. We also made a strong and fast micro servo of our own, plus the servo horn to make it work.
While we're partial to ours, there's plenty of good micro servos out there, and they're all likely to be faster and better than the OEM options.
Something we didn't realize was an issue until it started occurring on practically every one of our rental vehicles: the little M1.4 screws (of unknown metallurgy) that secure the ring gear to the diff case can easily break.
This likely occurs due to hard driving where an abrupt stop/start or change in RPM occurs, such as landing a jump while on the brakes/throttle on a high traction surface, or just crashing into things at high speed.
The heavy metal ring gear needs to be clamped to the plastic diff case well enough that there's no side load applied to the screws. It's a steep request for the tiny stock hardware, but we've got the solution:
You’ll also need a tap, tap handle, and 1.3 mm hex driver (if you don’t have one) to make the screws work with the differential cases:
We designed practically indestructible CNC machined 7075-T6 aluminum gearboxes to provide maximum durability and rigidity.
Get them here: 7075 Aluminum Gearbox
Tired of the OEM drag link almost immediately wearing out, leaving you with excessive steering slop? So were we.
Available here: 7075 Aluminum Drag Link
If you’re running on dirt/clay tracks or just general outdoor use, our titanium plates are awesome for wear protection, plus they make sparks when scraped.
These will keep your axles from digging into the outdrives. It’s not a huge deal, but it’s nice to have them last over a year without notching. Makes things feel more responsive when the pins are making contact with the outdrive slot properly at all times instead of having that little delay or slop.
This is something we requested and tested with LC Racing.
It's easy to bend the stock hinge pins, but difficult to know for sure without removing them for inspection, leaving you chasing the root cause of any driveability and steering trim issues.
These pins have endured incredible crashes in our experience without issue. We have ripped arms off, bent the suspension mounts, etc. while the pin remains perfectly straight.
However, when pushed beyond their limit, these pins will break rather then bend. So with everything, it depends on what you'd rather have: a stronger pin that ensures consistent performance (but could break completely), or a pin that may bend causing things to steer oddly (but can continue to drive and make it to the end of the heat/race, while fighting to drive straight).
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